Before 1970, my life was aimed at mountaineering. My ambition was not to use technical equipment as much as possible and to surpass all physical limits. From the study of the Alps, I also summed up my own way of climbing, but the death of my younger brother gave me a huge shock - how close the connection between the mountaineering and the death is, and how dangerous climbing is. I did not seriously think about this before. If a mountaineer does not understand that death is one of the endings of mountaineering, then he (she) is stupid. At the same time, I also experienced a simple truth: The tragedy of Nanga Parbat is irreversible, and the dead cannot be resurrected.
Six months later, with mental and physical scars, I began to climb again. After truncated, my rock climbing ability is far less than before. So I turned my attention to the high mountains with ice walls. In 1971 I returned to Nanga Parbat to find the remains of my brother. At the base camp, I dreamed that he had come down from the glacier and entered my tent... Two years later, I came to Nanga Parbat for the third time. I want to climb alone. This is my new aspiration for mountaineering - singles from the difficult route to the summit of 8000 meters peak without technical equipment. However, I failed.
In 1977, when my personal condition and mood were extremely bad, I came to Nanjia Parbat for the fourth time. I also attempted to climb alone. I failed again - partly because of my own weaknesses and partly because of fears of something invisible in the mountains. I can't deal with the illusion in front of me. In 1978, after I realized that everyone was a single individual and each individual's life could be sustained independently and then gave up on the idea of ​​going with my brother, I had the courage to start climbing my career again. That year I singled myself again along the Damirwall boarding the Nanga Parbat and returning to the base camp from a different route. The technical equipment to be carried throughout the journey is only ice axes, crampons, sleeping bags and tents.
This single climb began in the Valley of the Mills, and it was almost in 1970 that I was searching for my brother's trace of the glaciers. I started my action from 5 o'clock on the morning of August 7, 78. In only a few hours, most of the ice walls were already underfoot. I reached a height of 6,400 meters. Under a hailstorm, I supported a small tent specially made for this action and drank snow and water in my sleeping bag. I really like the small world of this person. Although this kind of life will not be understood by most people, I rested for a long time in the small tent and got a good recovery.
The next morning at 5.20am, I was sitting in a sleeping bag and boiled tea. Suddenly, the tent trembled. After a few seconds, huge cracklings and roars rolled. When I came out of the tent, I saw only piles of snow falling down and down, and there was a meeting at the bottom of the valley, forming a large avalanche a few kilometers wide and sweeping across the Darmil Valley. Later, I learned that the earthquake triggered the big avalanche. On the first day I was along a long, humming, hinged office. Now from the top down, this ice tongue has been lost in an avalanche. I can't return to the original road, but now I don't need to manage so much. I'm going to climb up.
Although my retreat is broken, my spirit is very good. Good luck made it difficult for me to avalanche. I hope good luck will accompany me. I was very motivated that day and I was not afraid of any difficulties; I did not want to withdraw, I just wanted to go upwards. In this excited state I climbed. The sky in Nanga Parbat looks like a blue-black eternal. As the height rises, the eternal becomes ever more open. The snow-capped mountains surround the edge of the blue-black sky and the main peak of Nanga Parbat rises.
I often go into mountain climbing to get this kind of scenery that makes people feel buried in the infinite. In this scenario, many people can't help but ask: Why are we here? Where do we come from? Where are you going? I have no answer to this. If you do not believe in religion, perhaps the answers to these questions do not exist. The only explanation you can get is that some part of your life is inspired and you start looking for the purpose of life. For me, these problems do not exist. What I want is to focus on climbing.
Struggling upwards, it can also be said that my beliefs have offset my problems.
On the third day of August 9th, I climbed to the top. The last journey to the summit was to climb out of the deep snow and rocks. At the top I left a signed and dated note to prove that I had arrived here. Due to lack of consideration, I did not have a backup camera. At the time, the peak was covered by dark clouds. When the camera in my hand broke, I did not have the opportunity to take enough photos to prove that I was at the top. There were not enough photos to convince those. People who are skeptical about my single summit. I put the signed piece of paper in a lead box and use a short pile to fix it on the top of the cliff. In my mountaineering career, this was my first and last time I left a note at the top.
On the day I retire to the campsite at 7,400 meters. The next day began to snow, and the new snow covered everything. It is impossible to continue the downward move. I don't have to worry. My food and fuel are sufficient for a week. However, it is sometimes more difficult for a person to wait in the mountains than to climb. Although I was lying still in the tent, I always thought about how to deal with the sudden danger. If the snow does not stop, the danger of avalanche increases. The third day is still bad weather and the mountain is still covered with clouds. I caught the moment when the cloud began to thin and I started to go down. In the mist I fumbled down a straight line. I only know that the flat part of the glaciers is under 3,000 meters, but this is enough. I have no fear, only the desire to go down. In just a few hours, I went smoothly down the wall to the glacier. I simply do not believe that I was out of danger so quickly. Looking back, the mountains are still covered by clouds and snowfall still occurs at high altitudes.
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