How to plan two hours of bouldering training

Translated: Climbing Tech Tips 204 Author: David Rowland compile: Zhang Qing

Bouldering training is one of the most effective ways to increase strength and skill. However, the bouldering training is large in angle, high in strength, and consuming physical strength. Many newcomers are daunting, preferring to practice with a gentler top rope line. Here is a fun and efficiency two-hour bouldering training program. We hope that enthusiasts can get rid of the frequent failures, frustrations, and overtraining that may occur during bouldering and increase the interest in bouldering training.

Success will bring more success.

Use the first hour to gradually learn and master the skills needed for more difficult movements. Bouldering is one of the most skillful ways to climb a rock. Every move, every step, your grab hand, center of gravity movement, and climbing speed are constantly changing. The harder you can successfully accomplish, the more skills you learn, the faster your body can adapt to new challenges. So our goal now is to find enough difficulty to detect your limits; but simple enough to allow you to complete the action in the first hour. Here are some basic rules for finding such actions.

Start with a six-step bouldering route - this length is enough to train your strength and skill, but it won't grow long enough to make your muscles sore.
The first or second attempt to complete the route can not be counted, they are too simple to avoid the negative process. If there is one action you can't always do, or the worse it gets, the route may be too difficult, for a simpler one.
After finding a very good route, you must practice each movement over and over again. Experience the difference between different feet and different body postures. Stage exercises, refine and perfect each step. Note that you do not have to start from the ground every time.
Rest enough. Give yourself a break of three to five minutes, and each time you are on the rock wall, you are almost completely full of energy.

Set up your own route. If it's too difficult for you to stick a good route, then find six big points and create your own actions. Or find a partner that is similar to yours and assign routes to each other.
Remember, success is the ultimate goal. The first hour needs to complete one or two routes.

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Completed route may wish to try again.

Almost all rock climbers threw it aside after completing a bouldering route. In fact, when you finish a difficult route, training has only just begun. The second hour we have to do is to study and try our best to improve the efficiency of the skilled movements, consolidate skills, and train endurance.

Give you an introductory training schedule: three sets of three-minute repetitions. For example, in the first hour you took a course and you did not find it too difficult to pass through the practice. This route can be the second hour of training. Do it once; rest for three minutes and do it once; rest for three minutes and do it again. This is a set. Take a break for ten minutes and change another one. This three sets of actions become complete training procedures.

Less may be more effective.

For the novice, the biggest gain comes from the improvement of skills, not strength or endurance. When the body is fully rested and in good condition, the best skills can be developed. Take at least one day after training. If you are still feeling tired, you can rest longer. Don't feel like you are wasting time. You should know that the benefit of bouldering is that the two-hour training program is more effective than the top rope climbing all night and brings about more improvement.


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